A Brief History of Silk

A Brief History of Silk

Silk fabric was invented in Ancient China and played an important role in their economy and became an iconic facet to China, the emperors and nobility were typically clad in fine elegant silk dresses and led to become a sign of power and wealth.

A royal silk gown, only the emperor could wear a dragon with 5 claws.

Legend has it that the process for making silk cloth was first invented by Emperor Huang – Ti’s wife Leizu, around the year 2696 BC. The anecdote goes that while Leizu was enjoying some quiet time in the imperial gardens, a cocoon fell in her tea and unravelled, while undoubtedly this would have caused an initial stir of abhorrence, the empress was quick notice that the cocoon was actually made from a long thread that was both strong and soft. 

Emperor Huang - Ti

Leizu then discovered how to combine the silk fibers into a thread, she then went on to progress to invent the silk loom that combined the threads into a soft cloth. Soon Leizu had a forest of mulberry trees for the silkworms to feed on and taught the rest of China how to make silk. 

In spite of their secrecy, however, the Chinese were destined to lose their monopoly on silk production. Sericulture reached Korea around 200 BC, when waves of Chinese immigrants arrived there. Silk reached the West through a number of different channels. Shortly after AD 300, sericulture travelled westward and the cultivation of the silkworm was established in India.

It is also said that in AD 440, a prince of Khotan (today's Hetian)--a kingdom on the rim of Taklamakan desert -- courted and won a Chinese princess. The princess smuggled out silkworm eggs by hiding them in her voluminous hairpiece. This was scant solace to the silk-hungry people of the West, for Khotan kept the secret too so as to keep a monopoly over it.

Then around AD 550, two Nestorian monks appeared at the Byzantine Emperor Justinian's court with silkworm eggs hid in their hollow bamboo staves. Under their supervision the eggs hatched into worms, and the worms spun cocoons. 

Byzantium was in the silk business at last. The Byzantine church and state created imperial workshops, monopolizing production and keeping the secret to themselves. This allowed a silk industry to be established in the Middle East, undercutting the market for ordinary-grade Chinese silk. However high-quality silk textiles, woven in China especially for the Middle Eastern market, continued to bring high prices in the West, and trade along the Silk Road therefore continued as before.

Court ladies pounding silk 

By the sixth century the Persians, too, had mastered the art of silk weaving, developing their own rich patterns and techniques. It was only in the 13th century—the time of the Second Crusades—that Italy began silk production with the introduction of 2000 skilled silk weavers from Constantinople. Eventually silk production became widespread in Europe.


Oxford Blue offers a must have range of silk products, the range ties into each other well and most country orientated outfits. We have cufflinks, ties, handkerchiefs and box gift sets. 100% silk, these items will make the perfect gift or simply that added special touch to a finely country wardrobe. 

Our range can be viewed here: https://www.oxford-blue.com/collections/ties

                                                            https://www.oxford-blue.com/collections/ties

A brief history of Blackwatch tartan

Our W303 Men's Wax Tartan Harrington Jacket

http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/220/w303-mens-wax-tartan-harrington-

It is amazing to see just how much military has given to the world of fashion, a seemingly unsuspecting world giving so much to aesthetic appeal is just uncanny in all senses of the word.

The term "Blackwatch" does not refer to the style of pattern in a direct sense, but a Scottish military regiment, charged to watch and patrol the highlands, wore this dark pattern and has now become known as "Blackwatch tartan", or more accurately - the Black watch's tartan. It is also known as the "Universal" or "Governmental" tartan.

http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_maehweh4bI1r84z5a.jpg

http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/military-tartans/regimental-tartans/

The origins of The Black Watch can be traced back to 1725, when George II requested a series of 6  Independent Companies to watch and patrol areas of the Highlands. Following the Jacobite uprising in 1715, the watch was charged with carrying out the duty of:

"Employed in disarming the Highlanders, preventing depredations, bringing criminals to justice, and hindering rebels and attained persons from inhabiting that part of the kingdom."

The Regiment would at first where similar dark colours to each other but would later on have one regional uniform. The Military captains of the six companies were; Lord Lovat, Grant of Ballindalloch, Munro of Culcairn, Campbell of Lochnell, Campbell of Carrick and Campbell of Skipness. A month down the line in mid May 1725, General Wade sent out the following command:

“"Take Care to provide Plaid Clothing and Bonnets in the Highland Dress for the Non-Commission Officers and Soldiers belonging to their Companies, the Plaid of each Company to be as near as they can of the same sort and Colour."

Some have interpreted this as Wade indirectly saying he would prefer if they were all consistent in dress.

Our top selling W49 Ladies Tartan Wax Katrina on the left and W113 Quilted Biker Jacket on the right.

http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/160/w49-ladies-tartan-katrina

Later on as with many other items of military dress, the Governmental Tartan saw it's way into mainstream fashion and secured its territory within the realm of the non military, Oxford Blue's range of blackwatch items branches into coats, jackets and coats which have proved to be popular choices.

A Brief History of the Duffle Coat

The Duffle coat is another one of Britain's iconic items of fashion that found it's way from being an item of functional wear.

It is now one of the best raise to fame success stories in respect to fashion that Britain offers, more often than not, an essential item in every wardrobe, perhaps because it is the only garment in a gentleman's wardrobe to have a hood. Initially starting off as predominately a man's item of fashion, it rose to popularity during it's years and now is widely worn by women.

The iconic "Monty" Duffle coat

The genesis of the duffle coat lies with 19th century British fashion designer John Partridge, the common myth is that the coat comes form the Belgium town "Duffel" but this however is a misconception, the iconic toggle fasteners on the garment had been used in Britain for over 200 years. the garment was initially used by sailors as a piece of functional wear, thus it found popularity within the British Navy during WW1 and WW2.

The iconic "Monty" Duffle coat worn by the Navy

However while worn by the armed forces, two gents in particular really did act as trendsetting trailblazers and set the scene for the duffle coat - namely Field Marshall Montgomery and Sir David Stirling as shown in the picture below:

Though of course not yet in it's fashionable state, these large, functional, work-wear duffle coats were popular amongst various circles within the armed forces.

The trend kicked off during the 1950's and 60's moreso and the garment became more fitted and adapted to fashion trends and thus found it's way in popular culture and TV through the likes of Paddington Bear first seen in 1958, becoming a large hit amongst children:

Most nowadays probably would not know who the Field Marshall who fist donned this jacket is but know what Monty jacket it - a true testament to the power of the success of this garment.

A Brief History of the Wax Jacket

Oxford Blue in it's inception over four decades ago started with just making wax jackets, over the years we have honed this garment to perfection and have now become international selling in Europe, Asia, and even the United States enabling us to become wax garment specialists.

However, what is the wax jacket? How did it come about? Why put wax on a cotton jacket?

All interesting questions.

Like most items of fashion these days, the garment was once an item of functional wear. The wax jacket owes its origins to the initial development of wax fabric itself which found itself first made use by innovative British sailors as a raincoat around the 19th century.

But it all began when sailors noticed that the sails on their ships when wet would slow the vessel down considerably, imagine how heavy your normal everyday jacket gets in heavy rain - now imagine how heavy a large sail a hundred feet in the air on a colossal 19th cent flagship would be! 

The North Atlantic can be a very harsh and inhospitable environment, those sails men who worked at sea over 150 years ago would constantly be slapped by claps of rain, cutting winds and turbulent sea waves. Hence the brave sailors of the day donned a form of armour that shielded them from such harsh working conditions. Survival was of course dependent on the quality clothing one would wear, if a man on deck was soaked he would most definitely render his limbs heavy, slow down work and tire himself out at best, at worst he could catch disease such as pneumonia.

Initially they were apply linseed oil onto their sails and tear off any remains and use them as waterproof smocks - the stage was set for the gradual slope of evolution into the British fashion icon that is the wax jacket.

http://media.tumblr.com/c7b2af171de03e92b32dfe7c5ebf0d8d/tumblr_inline_mn0g4oGm0l1qz4rgp.jpg

However, problems occurred with linseed oil, gradual ageing would turn the garments and sails yellow and in cold the fabric would turn incredibly stiff, it seemed one problem solved turned into a myriad of many more problems. Nevertheless the innovative minds of the day turned to using wax. It rendered the jacket weatherproof yet lightweight and pliable enough for the sailors to carry out their duties.

The traders of the day started selling these garments out to everyone who would benefit from such work wear, thus in the British countryside gamekeepers, farmers, hunters, fisherman and all those exposed to the elements would eventually buy into the wax jacket market. 

Oxford Blue in it's inception started off mainly with functional wear such as:

Our W73 Hobart Cape

W19L Ladies Drover

And indeed we still do make them, however over the years as technology advances, garments such as the hobart cape tend to find themselves reborn into fabrics such as nylon, a much more longer lasting, robust material that does not require re - proofing.

So why keep making traditional wax garments?

The answer is simple, the modern fabrics just cannot displace the image of the aged, antique look of the traditional wax fabric, it has character, history and will continue to live on. The country look would not be the same without a wax jacket on top of a classic shirt and tweed hat. 

That's why we are, classic country clothing, from Oxford Blue.

The prestigious visit of HRH Princess Anne to Oxford Blue

1996, the roads blocked off and HRH’s security arriving early to do a preliminary check around our premises, the scene was set for one of the honours a business could achieve.

The Princess Royal, the second child and only daughter of The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh, was born at Clarence House, London, on 15 August 1950, when her mother was Princess Elizabeth, heir presumptive to the throne. She was baptised Anne Elizabeth Alice Louise at Buckingham Palace on 21 October 1950. 

She received the title Princess Royal from The Queen in June 1987; she was previously known as Princess Anne. Her Royal Highness is the seventh holder of the title.

Princess Anne had come to know about our export success through the BKC, Oxford Blue is heavily involved in exporting goods and strengthening the British economy by doing so, indeed, the unique selling point of Oxford Blue is that our garments of made in Britain, each of our garments have been carefully handcrafted by skilled British workers as a classic British country clothing brand should be - something a lot of our competitors cannot offer.

By helping the economy in such a manner, HRH decided it apt to visit our premises just outside the Birmingham city centre on Constitution Hill to take a look at the production of the renowned garments of Oxford Blue.

 HRH’s visit made it to the Evening Mail

Princess Anne was shown around the building and was introduced to all the staff from all departments, from the manufacturers, sales, suppliers and distributors the entire process was shown step by step of how the company HRH came especially to visit achieved their feats.

Various snapshots of the day

Oxford Blue exports many of its clothes to international markets in Europe, Asia and even in the USA, the style of classic British country clothing strikes well with those not residing within the UK, many like the novelty of tweed and the look and feel of British made wax jacket, not to say of course that the products do not sell well at home here in the UK, but in terms of export - harkening back to the reason why HRH came to visit the factory.

Along with HRH, other special guests included rugby legend William "Bill" Blackledge Beaumont CBE (born 9 March 1952, Chorley, Lancashire, England) was captain of the England rugby union team as a lock, at a time when they struggled to win games, his greatest moment as captain was the unexpected 1980 Grand Slam. He is currently a member of the International Rugby Board and Chairman of the Rugby Football Union, Bill Beaumont Textiles specialises in traditional and contemporary fabrics for use in window coverings and upholstery.

When Beaumont played rugby in the 1970s and 80s, it was an amateur sport so unlike the stars of today, he had to have a normal job. When he left school he joined the family textile business, which he eventually bought from the family in 1998, and played rugby locally for Fylde Rugby Club where he progressed to play for Lancashire, the Barbarians, England and the Lions. He is still involved with rugby and is currently Chairman of the Rugby Football Union and was awarded an OBE in 1982 and a CBE in 2008 for services to Rugby.

Bill is the great-great-grandson of Joseph Hargreaves, the business’ founder who set up a weaving shed in Chorley, Lancashire in 1888. Bill works alongside his wife Hilary, the business’ Design Director. Bill and Hilary work with their eldest son Daniel who is the Managing Director. 

                                                     

At the end of her visit we gifted HRH with one of our HW44 Ladies Thelma Hats, a classic and charming piece of headwear featuring a brown 100% cotton checked lining, brim band around the centre and a bow at the back. This hat is also available in honey and blackwatch tartan – both going really well with their W47 & W49 Katrina jacket counterparts.                                        

 A close up of the newspaper article

HW44

HW38 Honey and Blackwatch edition

After which we received a letter from the crown stating how enjoyable the experience was for The Princess and how she will wear our hat with great pride:

Since then Oxford Blue has been going from strength to strength, the visit from her majesty was indeed a testament to the quality of our garments - fit for a Princess. 

Throwback Thursday

Throwback Thursday - the talented Galina Thomas and Josif Nolan modelling for us in 2014

Nolan can be seen here wearing:

Coat: W211 New Men's Tartan Burley (Blackwatch)http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/…/247/w211-new-mens-tartan-bu…

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Headwear: HW30 Quilted Flat Cap (Black)http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/produ…/…/hw30-quilted-flat-cap

Thomas can be seen wearing:

Coat: W3 Eltham Japara (Navy)
http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/…/w03-ladies-eltham-wax-jacket

Headwear: Hw38 Tartan Thelma (Blackwatch)
http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/…/hw38---ladies-tartan-thelma…

Galina Thomas can be found here: http://galinathomas.blogspot.co.uk/

Josif Nolan can be found here: http://www.joymodels.com/model/7169/model

An intro to our top selling men's W229 Pilot Jacket

As the name suggests the pilot jacket served initially as functional wear for those air borne adventurers and military personnel, during World War 1 the cockpits in the fighter jets were open and thus the pilots had to fight against the harsh colds of the altitudes they fiercely fought on as well as their enemies. Hence the jackets had to provide the pilot with enough warmth, insulation and protection as possible.

Over the years as with many items of clothing from the military the garment saw its transition into mainstream fashion worn by civilians. Changes to the function adjusted the form accordingly (as these were no longer required to stand high altitudes) such as the original fabric often being made from sheepskin exchanged for more fashionable material.

1.   Being a military item of clothing, the early pilot jackets had to be cost effective, long lasting, warm and able to be produced relatively quickly.

2.   The high collars served as shield against winter winds and flurries, the pilots would have caught illnesses if their body temperature went beyond normal – the neck being a major chink in the body’s natural armour.

The jacket owes its popularity to the image painted by the war pilots of WW1 and WW2, the lifestyle of freedom and rebel spirit emulated by a pilot taking to the air seemed to have appealed well to the youths of each generation thus carrying it into the 21^st century and acting in a way as a small homage to the soldiers of the great war. 

This highly luxurious jacket 100% Waxed Cotton (Antique 8oz) and has a cosy wool collar to ensure maximum comfort when wearing this popular item of Oxford Blue. 

It features two button press breast pockets, two slide in pockets and adjusters on the hip and cuff to suit individual preferences. 

http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/176/w229-mens-pilot-jacket

Re blogged from: http://www.mensfashionmagazine.com/ss14-trend-bomber-jackets

Springwear? No problem.

Our W303 Men's Wax Tartan Harrington, available in honey or blackwatch tartan, this is a great looking jacket for the Spring or Summer and maintaining that classic British country look with a touch of mainstream fashion.

 http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/220/w303-mens-wax-tartan-harrington-