Showing posts with label country wear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label country wear. Show all posts

Friday, 6 November 2015

A Brief History of Silk

A Brief History of Silk

Silk fabric was invented in Ancient China and played an important role in their economy and became an iconic facet to China, the emperors and nobility were typically clad in fine elegant silk dresses and led to become a sign of power and wealth.

A royal silk gown, only the emperor could wear a dragon with 5 claws.

Legend has it that the process for making silk cloth was first invented by Emperor Huang – Ti’s wife Leizu, around the year 2696 BC. The anecdote goes that while Leizu was enjoying some quiet time in the imperial gardens, a cocoon fell in her tea and unravelled, while undoubtedly this would have caused an initial stir of abhorrence, the empress was quick notice that the cocoon was actually made from a long thread that was both strong and soft. 


Emperor Huang - Ti

Leizu then discovered how to combine the silk fibers into a thread, she then went on to progress to invent the silk loom that combined the threads into a soft cloth. Soon Leizu had a forest of mulberry trees for the silkworms to feed on and taught the rest of China how to make silk. 


In spite of their secrecy, however, the Chinese were destined to lose their monopoly on silk production. Sericulture reached Korea around 200 BC, when waves of Chinese immigrants arrived there. Silk reached the West through a number of different channels. Shortly after AD 300, sericulture travelled westward and the cultivation of the silkworm was established in India.

It is also said that in AD 440, a prince of Khotan (today's Hetian)--a kingdom on the rim of Taklamakan desert -- courted and won a Chinese princess. The princess smuggled out silkworm eggs by hiding them in her voluminous hairpiece. This was scant solace to the silk-hungry people of the West, for Khotan kept the secret too so as to keep a monopoly over it.




Then around AD 550, two Nestorian monks appeared at the Byzantine Emperor Justinian's court with silkworm eggs hid in their hollow bamboo staves. Under their supervision the eggs hatched into worms, and the worms spun cocoons. 

Byzantium was in the silk business at last. The Byzantine church and state created imperial workshops, monopolizing production and keeping the secret to themselves. This allowed a silk industry to be established in the Middle East, undercutting the market for ordinary-grade Chinese silk. However high-quality silk textiles, woven in China especially for the Middle Eastern market, continued to bring high prices in the West, and trade along the Silk Road therefore continued as before.



Court ladies pounding silk 


By the sixth century the Persians, too, had mastered the art of silk weaving, developing their own rich patterns and techniques. It was only in the 13th century—the time of the Second Crusades—that Italy began silk production with the introduction of 2000 skilled silk weavers from Constantinople. Eventually silk production became widespread in Europe.


Oxford Blue offers a must have range of silk products, the range ties into each other well and most country orientated outfits. We have cufflinks, ties, handkerchiefs and box gift sets. 100% silk, these items will make the perfect gift or simply that added special touch to a finely country wardrobe. 

Our range can be viewed here: https://www.oxford-blue.com/collections/ties






                                                            https://www.oxford-blue.com/collections/ties





Friday, 5 June 2015

A Brief History of the Wax Jacket

Oxford Blue in it's inception over four decades ago started with just making wax jackets, over the years we have honed this garment to perfection and have now become international selling in Europe, Asia, and even the United States enabling us to become wax garment specialists.

However, what is the wax jacket? How did it come about? Why put wax on a cotton jacket?

All interesting questions.

Like most items of fashion these days, the garment was once an item of functional wear. The wax jacket owes its origins to the initial development of wax fabric itself which found itself first made use by innovative British sailors as a raincoat around the 19th century.


But it all began when sailors noticed that the sails on their ships when wet would slow the vessel down considerably, imagine how heavy your normal everyday jacket gets in heavy rain - now imagine how heavy a large sail a hundred feet in the air on a colossal 19th cent flagship would be! 

The North Atlantic can be a very harsh and inhospitable environment, those sails men who worked at sea over 150 years ago would constantly be slapped by claps of rain, cutting winds and turbulent sea waves. Hence the brave sailors of the day donned a form of armour that shielded them from such harsh working conditions. Survival was of course dependent on the quality clothing one would wear, if a man on deck was soaked he would most definitely render his limbs heavy, slow down work and tire himself out at best, at worst he could catch disease such as pneumonia.



Initially they were apply linseed oil onto their sails and tear off any remains and use them as waterproof smocks - the stage was set for the gradual slope of evolution into the British fashion icon that is the wax jacket.


http://media.tumblr.com/c7b2af171de03e92b32dfe7c5ebf0d8d/tumblr_inline_mn0g4oGm0l1qz4rgp.jpg


However, problems occurred with linseed oil, gradual ageing would turn the garments and sails yellow and in cold the fabric would turn incredibly stiff, it seemed one problem solved turned into a myriad of many more problems. Nevertheless the innovative minds of the day turned to using wax. It rendered the jacket weatherproof yet lightweight and pliable enough for the sailors to carry out their duties.

The traders of the day started selling these garments out to everyone who would benefit from such work wear, thus in the British countryside gamekeepers, farmers, hunters, fisherman and all those exposed to the elements would eventually buy into the wax jacket market. 

Oxford Blue in it's inception started off mainly with functional wear such as:


Our W73 Hobart Cape


W19L Ladies Drover

And indeed we still do make them, however over the years as technology advances, garments such as the hobart cape tend to find themselves reborn into fabrics such as nylon, a much more longer lasting, robust material that does not require re - proofing.


So why keep making traditional wax garments?

The answer is simple, the modern fabrics just cannot displace the image of the aged, antique look of the traditional wax fabric, it has character, history and will continue to live on. The country look would not be the same without a wax jacket on top of a classic shirt and tweed hat. 

That's why we are, classic country clothing, from Oxford Blue.