Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Friday, 21 August 2015

A brief history of clay pigeon shooting.

A traditionally aristocratic pastime, clay pigeon shooting has evolved to be a widespread pastime amongst all.



It was popular practise in the 1800's for hunting parties to don tweed garments and boots and hunt pheasants, pigeons and other game birds of all varieties in their country estates. It was in 1812 in a London suburb that the first live pigeon-shooting club was born. It was called the "Old Hats Tavern". The old hats were used nas boxes in order to launch the pigeons. This was when the expansion of this sport first started. 

However around the 1850's glass balls filled with feathers were used instead of live game, perhaps in an effort to make the sport less ghastly to the less bloodthirsty inclined sportsmen or even to cut down costs. Mechanisms were devised as a sort of animal trap to release the glass balls into the air, coining the phrase "ball trap."



By 1921 live pigeon shooting competitions were made illegal but by the end of the 19th century the clay target had emerged which Victorian era shooters used as practise before hunting for live game, thus the cklay pigeon had already reach mainstream circles paving its way to take over during competitions, by 1927 it has enough popularity for Britain to host it's first open championship.





Our large range of traditional and genuine shooting jackets can be viewed on our website www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk

1. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/150/w37---mens-tweed-jacket
2. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/10/mtw02-gents-tweed-gilet
3. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/9/ltw05-ladies-raglan-tweed-coat



Friday, 14 August 2015

The country tweed shooting jacket.



Among the British aristocracy was a popular pastime of hunting game and shooting, this was largely done in tweed garments to help shield the wearer from the typically cold and damp British weather. Shooting was largely a seasonal hobby depending on the quarry:

Gamebird and Waterfowl Open Seasons (dates inclusive)
Species
England and Wales
Scotland
Northern Ireland
Isle of Man
Pheasant
Oct 1 – Feb 1
Oct 1 – Feb 1
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Grey Partridge
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1- Jan 31
Protected
(ban in force)
Red-legged Partridge
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1- Jan 31
Sep 13 – Jan 31
Red Grouse
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Aug 12 – Nov 30
Aug 25 – Oct 31 *
Black Grouse
Aug 20 – Dec 10 (Somerset, Devon and New Forest: Sep 1 – Dec 10)
Aug 20 – Dec 10
Ptarmigan
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Duck & Goose
inland
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31 – DucksJuly 1 – Mar 31 – Geese**
Duck & Goose
below HWM (see below)
Sep 1 – Feb 20
Sep 1 – Feb 20
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31- Ducks
Jul 1 – Mar 31 – Geese **
Common Snipe
Aug 12 – Jan 31
Aug 12 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Jack Snipe
Protected
Protected
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Woodcock
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Golden Plover
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Coot/Moorhen
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Protected

HWM – High water mark:
England and Wales: The area of sea shore which is more often than not covered by the flux and reflux of the four ordinary tides occurring midway between springs and neaps.

Scotland: Area between high and low water marks of ordinary spring tides

Northern Ireland: The limit of where the living seaweed is attached to the stones of the foreshore.

Isle of Man: * Currently a voluntary ban on shooting red grouse is in place. ** Geese can only be shot under general licence under the Wildlife Act 1990. See the Department of Agriculture Fisheries and Forestry (DAFF) website for terms and conditions of general licences http://www.gov.im/categories/the-environment-and-greener-living/wildlife/





The shooting jacket had to cater for it wearer in a different respect to a traditional jacket die to the nature of the sport, the 4 main ways are:

1.      Greater manoeuvrability

None shooting jackets do not allow much give when lifting the arms up, therefore should one go clay pigeon shooting where a high flying target moves fast, one would need the extra room and give in the shoulder region to allow such play.

2.       Deep and wide pockets

A defining characteristic, the pockets should be deep to ensure cartridges do not fall out and wide enough to allow quick and easy access to, shooters could also wear bandoliers as an alternative however the jacket also served as an accompanying store.

3.       Hidden zips

The zips would be hidden under flaps of tweed to protect the gun but from getting scratched and surely from making noise, on waistcoats the shoulder would have fabric over layer for the same reason.

4.       Warm and waterproof

Out in the estate all day, one would be up against fairly regularly un friendly British weather, hunting jackets in particular needed waterproof coating.






A theory of how the jacket came about which is not implausible is an evolution from the Norfolk jacket, popular as a sports jacket in the 1860’s but perhaps too restrictive, thus a more baggy coat came about to allow shooters greater play when hunting.



http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/


Our large range of traditional and genuine shooting jackets can be viewed on our website www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk

1. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/150/w37---mens-tweed-jacket

2. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/10/mtw02-gents-tweed-gilet

3. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/9/ltw05-ladies-raglan-tweed-coat

Friday, 26 June 2015

A brief history of Blackwatch tartan


Our W303 Men's Wax Tartan Harrington Jacket
http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/220/w303-mens-wax-tartan-harrington-



It is amazing to see just how much military has given to the world of fashion, a seemingly unsuspecting world giving so much to aesthetic appeal is just uncanny in all senses of the word.

The term "Blackwatch" does not refer to the style of pattern in a direct sense, but a Scottish military regiment, charged to watch and patrol the highlands, wore this dark pattern and has now become known as "Blackwatch tartan", or more accurately - the Black watch's tartan. It is also known as the "Universal" or "Governmental" tartan.


http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_maehweh4bI1r84z5a.jpg


http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/military-tartans/regimental-tartans/


The origins of The Black Watch can be traced back to 1725, when George II requested a series of 6  Independent Companies to watch and patrol areas of the Highlands. Following the Jacobite uprising in 1715, the watch was charged with carrying out the duty of:

"Employed in disarming the Highlanders, preventing depredations, bringing criminals to justice, and hindering rebels and attained persons from inhabiting that part of the kingdom."

The Regiment would at first where similar dark colours to each other but would later on have one regional uniform. The Military captains of the six companies were; Lord Lovat, Grant of Ballindalloch, Munro of Culcairn, Campbell of Lochnell, Campbell of Carrick and Campbell of Skipness. A month down the line in mid May 1725, General Wade sent out the following command:

"Take Care to provide Plaid Clothing and Bonnets in the Highland Dress for the Non-Commission Officers and Soldiers belonging to their Companies, the Plaid of each Company to be as near as they can of the same sort and Colour."
Some have interpreted this as Wade indirectly saying he would prefer if they were all consistent in dress.


Our top selling W49 Ladies Tartan Wax Katrina on the left and W113 Quilted Biker Jacket on the right.
http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/160/w49-ladies-tartan-katrina

Later on as with many other items of military dress, the Governmental Tartan saw it's way into mainstream fashion and secured its territory within the realm of the non military, Oxford Blue's range of blackwatch items branches into coats, jackets and coats which have proved to be popular choices.








Friday, 12 June 2015

A Brief History of Tweed

Tweed, an icon of British country life, nothing is perhaps more instantly recognisable as British fashion than a classic tweed woven garment.



A HW45 Thelma Hat (Biscuit) and LTW09 Ladies Field Jacket 



The story of tweed is an amusing one, many would think it is after the river tweed that flows through Scotland, however it is quite comical to learn the fact that the name owes it's inception to a simple error in misreading an invoice! Tweel was the original name as a Scottish take on the word twill - its genesis being the fabrics twilled pattern, in 1826 William Watson hailing from Hawick to a London trader James Locke, due to a legibility error or some other factor, Locke misread the name as Tweed rather than tweel and thus the name Tweed as we know it was born. 


W221 and W226 Blazer and Waistcoat respectively (C001L Harris Tweed)



However the style of tweed and its association with gentry, aristocracy came about mid 19th century with the British nobles bringing about what was called estate tweeds. It was common practise amongst the classes of nobility to purchase estates purely for hunting and game keeping, the tweed would protect the wearer from the cold and moist and is considered informal wear by the social classes who adorned it in those days and would often be worn with Wellington's (when hunting) or with tanned shoes when not in the fields. 

The hunting estates coupled with the typical wearing of tweed hence gave birth to what was known as estate tweeds, the staff that would look after the estate were also clad in estate tweed to follow Highland traditions and also to ensure their staff were appropriately shielded from the elements,  


http://pages.rapha.cc/stories/tweed-the-original-performance-fabric


The Highland tradition of specific patterns serving as a distinct identity of each clan surfaced by each twilled pattern specific to an estate as a part of staff uniform. From the 1830's onwards, tweed had become a widespread fashion throughout all estates, and aristocrats would not be seen as genuine had they not followed trend.


LTW09 Ladies Field Jacket, HW57 Helmsley Cap, LTW08 Gilet (Light Green)

In the 1840's the countess of Dunmore introduced Harris Tweed amongst her circles and promoted it heavily to the extent that tweed is now synonymous with the quality and commanding stature of Harris Tweed.

We at Oxford Blue sell a wide range of Harris Tweed garments from blazers, waistcoats, hats and many more, one can always tell a genuine Harris Tweed garment by its smooth feel even though typically tweed is characteristically coarse, visit www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk for more. 



Friday, 29 May 2015

A Snapshot History of the Military Jacket

The military jacket is considered widely as a staple garment to have in the wardrobe. It is quite interesting to note just how many items of fashion actually owe their roots to the military - a line of work which one would usually expect it to be all about function rather than form. 

However, this is where 17th - 18th century Napoleonic European military gifted the world of fashion with the iconic jacket that is so widespread today, more specifically the Hussar and Majorette jacket, the Hussar jacket would've most likely lead to the 19th century American civil war era style Majorette jacket, later in history the Navy would release it's "Pea Jacket" for its crew on board the war ships of Europe.



Left - a Hussar Jacket Centre - Navy Pea Jacket Right - Majorette Jacket

The Hussars, refers to a number of types of light cavalry. This type of cavalry first appeared in the Hungarian army of King Matthias Corvinus, the title and distinctive dress of these horsemen were subsequently widely adopted by light cavalry regiments in European and other armies. A number of armoured or ceremonial mounted units in modern armies retain the designation of hussars. 

During the 16th century onwards right until mid 19th century, the mode of warfare primarily used muskets, a type of rifle which once fired caused alot of smoke owing to the sulphur powder, the armies of old still meeting face to face in the field en masse would have a hard time distinguishing friend or foe had it not been for their brightly coloured and distinct garments, this function would then lead the jacket to form more of a statement of rank, pomp and gentry even amongst military.

The same strength of highly visible, distinct uniforms however would later prove detrimental to an armies war effort soon after the technology shift of rifles ensured minimal smoke and guerilla units would easily pick off the packed in mass of stark clad soldiers. Segments of the British army was the first  then to shift to camouflaged khaki uniforms in India shortly before the Sepoy rebellion of 1857.



The young 21 years old Cornet, (Second Lieutenant) Winston Churchill of the 4th Queen's Own Hussars, 1895


The first written mention of the word "Hussarones" (in Latin, plural; in Hungarian: Huszár) has been found in documents dating from 1432 in Southern Hungary (at the time the Ottoman military frontiers of the Hungarian Kingdom). A type of irregular light horsemen was already well-established by the 15th century in medieval Hungary.

Henceforth, the light cavalry is called huszár, a name derived from the word húsz ("twenty" in Hungarian), which refers to the drafting scheme where for every twenty serfs a noble owned, he had to equip a mounted soldier.

A premise over the etymology of the word Hussar is offered by Byzantinist scholars, who argue the term originated in Roman military practice, and the cursarii (singular cursarius). Through Byzantine Army operations in the Balkans in the 10th and 11th centuries when Chosarioi/Chonsarioi were recruited with especially Serbs, the word was subsequently reintroduced to Western European military practice after its original usage had been lost with the collapse of Rome in the west.


Hungarian king and founder of the Hussars Matthias Corvinus

The hussars reportedly originated in bands of mostly Serbian warriors, crossing into southern Hungary after the Turkish invasion of Serbia at the end of the 14th century. The Governor of Hungary, John Hunyadi, created mounted units inspired by his enemy, the Ottoman Turks. His son, Matthias Corvinus, later king of Hungary, is unanimously accepted as the creator of these troops. Initially, they fought in small bands, but were reorganised into larger, trained formations during the reign of King Matthias Corvinus. 

So the first hussar regiments were the light cavalry of the Black Army of Hungary. Under his command, the hussars took part in the war against the Ottoman Empire in 1485 and proved successful against the Turkish Spahis as well as against Bohemians and Poles. After the king's death, in 1490, hussars remained the preferred form of cavalry in Hungary. The Habsburg emperors hired Hungarian hussars as mercenaries to serve against the Ottoman Empire and on various battlefields throughout Western Europe.


Hussars were often portrait as dashing and un - matched in valour, it is no surprising then that the jacket should find itself within mainstream fashion, those wanting to associate themselves as dashing albeit with a touch of class would fit well wearing the three century old garment marvelling exactly that. 

The jacket would see itself form a variation amongst some military units into the majorette jacket, typically worn by cavalry officers during the American Civil War and various other European armies across the globe and it is this jacket that more commonly seen is the fashion realm.


The Majorette in it's modern day habitat
http://www.stylehive.com/bookmark/free-people-majorette-jacket-1164382

The jacket is designed to be flattering and at first amongst civilians saw itself more popular with women, perhaps to do with the women aiming to show off their husbands and thereby families link with the military and show her support to her husband's warrior - hood. To this day it remains a popular garment amongst those who prefer a fitted and gentry style garment and it does indeed still bare the connotations of the aristocratic and noble values of the social classes who first clad them.

Various pop stars wore the garment and thus expanded the garments use and place in mainstream society, such as guitar legend Jimi Hendrix who himself served in the US military:


httpwww.feelnumb.com20111117jimi-hendrix-royal-hussar-british-army-veterinary-corps-military-jackets
This specific jacket's origins date back to the 1700's when General Lasalle otherwise known as “The Hussar General” wore this type of tunic as depicted in the painting below. Inspired by the Hungarian fashion of the day, it is adorned with heavy horizontal tasseled gold rope (pelisse) across the chest and Austrian knots on the sleeves to show rank.

The King of Pop Michael Jackson also surfaces when he too donned the jacket:



Here at Oxford Blue we have our own tribute to this time honoured classic coupled in fine tweed and also wax:


This ladies tweed jacket is made to the same high quality as you expect from Oxford Blue. Elegant and fashionable the new look military jacket looks great when worn in and around town or in the country. Made from 100% Wool Tweed that is Teflon coated.



Our LTW07 Tweed Military Jacket in Sea Blue, Light Green and Biscuit


The Military jacket seen here with our Pilot Jacket


Sea blue

Our best selling and fine quality garment can be purchased on our site here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/137/ltw07-ladies-millitary-tweed


The jacket can be nicely coupled with our LTW08
Ladies Tweed Gilet (100% Wool, Teflon Coated) available for purchase here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/154/ltw08---ladies-tweed-gilet



Indeed, the military jacket is a timeless piece that will last through the ages as it has already proved to have done, spanning over three centuries, this garment will be a prized possession for anyone's wardrobe. 





































































Select history sourced from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar