Friday 29 May 2015

A Snapshot History of the Military Jacket

The military jacket is considered widely as a staple garment to have in the wardrobe. It is quite interesting to note just how many items of fashion actually owe their roots to the military - a line of work which one would usually expect it to be all about function rather than form. 

However, this is where 17th - 18th century Napoleonic European military gifted the world of fashion with the iconic jacket that is so widespread today, more specifically the Hussar and Majorette jacket, the Hussar jacket would've most likely lead to the 19th century American civil war era style Majorette jacket, later in history the Navy would release it's "Pea Jacket" for its crew on board the war ships of Europe.



Left - a Hussar Jacket Centre - Navy Pea Jacket Right - Majorette Jacket

The Hussars, refers to a number of types of light cavalry. This type of cavalry first appeared in the Hungarian army of King Matthias Corvinus, the title and distinctive dress of these horsemen were subsequently widely adopted by light cavalry regiments in European and other armies. A number of armoured or ceremonial mounted units in modern armies retain the designation of hussars. 

During the 16th century onwards right until mid 19th century, the mode of warfare primarily used muskets, a type of rifle which once fired caused alot of smoke owing to the sulphur powder, the armies of old still meeting face to face in the field en masse would have a hard time distinguishing friend or foe had it not been for their brightly coloured and distinct garments, this function would then lead the jacket to form more of a statement of rank, pomp and gentry even amongst military.

The same strength of highly visible, distinct uniforms however would later prove detrimental to an armies war effort soon after the technology shift of rifles ensured minimal smoke and guerilla units would easily pick off the packed in mass of stark clad soldiers. Segments of the British army was the first  then to shift to camouflaged khaki uniforms in India shortly before the Sepoy rebellion of 1857.



The young 21 years old Cornet, (Second Lieutenant) Winston Churchill of the 4th Queen's Own Hussars, 1895


The first written mention of the word "Hussarones" (in Latin, plural; in Hungarian: Huszár) has been found in documents dating from 1432 in Southern Hungary (at the time the Ottoman military frontiers of the Hungarian Kingdom). A type of irregular light horsemen was already well-established by the 15th century in medieval Hungary.

Henceforth, the light cavalry is called huszár, a name derived from the word húsz ("twenty" in Hungarian), which refers to the drafting scheme where for every twenty serfs a noble owned, he had to equip a mounted soldier.

A premise over the etymology of the word Hussar is offered by Byzantinist scholars, who argue the term originated in Roman military practice, and the cursarii (singular cursarius). Through Byzantine Army operations in the Balkans in the 10th and 11th centuries when Chosarioi/Chonsarioi were recruited with especially Serbs, the word was subsequently reintroduced to Western European military practice after its original usage had been lost with the collapse of Rome in the west.


Hungarian king and founder of the Hussars Matthias Corvinus

The hussars reportedly originated in bands of mostly Serbian warriors, crossing into southern Hungary after the Turkish invasion of Serbia at the end of the 14th century. The Governor of Hungary, John Hunyadi, created mounted units inspired by his enemy, the Ottoman Turks. His son, Matthias Corvinus, later king of Hungary, is unanimously accepted as the creator of these troops. Initially, they fought in small bands, but were reorganised into larger, trained formations during the reign of King Matthias Corvinus. 

So the first hussar regiments were the light cavalry of the Black Army of Hungary. Under his command, the hussars took part in the war against the Ottoman Empire in 1485 and proved successful against the Turkish Spahis as well as against Bohemians and Poles. After the king's death, in 1490, hussars remained the preferred form of cavalry in Hungary. The Habsburg emperors hired Hungarian hussars as mercenaries to serve against the Ottoman Empire and on various battlefields throughout Western Europe.


Hussars were often portrait as dashing and un - matched in valour, it is no surprising then that the jacket should find itself within mainstream fashion, those wanting to associate themselves as dashing albeit with a touch of class would fit well wearing the three century old garment marvelling exactly that. 

The jacket would see itself form a variation amongst some military units into the majorette jacket, typically worn by cavalry officers during the American Civil War and various other European armies across the globe and it is this jacket that more commonly seen is the fashion realm.


The Majorette in it's modern day habitat
http://www.stylehive.com/bookmark/free-people-majorette-jacket-1164382

The jacket is designed to be flattering and at first amongst civilians saw itself more popular with women, perhaps to do with the women aiming to show off their husbands and thereby families link with the military and show her support to her husband's warrior - hood. To this day it remains a popular garment amongst those who prefer a fitted and gentry style garment and it does indeed still bare the connotations of the aristocratic and noble values of the social classes who first clad them.

Various pop stars wore the garment and thus expanded the garments use and place in mainstream society, such as guitar legend Jimi Hendrix who himself served in the US military:


httpwww.feelnumb.com20111117jimi-hendrix-royal-hussar-british-army-veterinary-corps-military-jackets
This specific jacket's origins date back to the 1700's when General Lasalle otherwise known as “The Hussar General” wore this type of tunic as depicted in the painting below. Inspired by the Hungarian fashion of the day, it is adorned with heavy horizontal tasseled gold rope (pelisse) across the chest and Austrian knots on the sleeves to show rank.

The King of Pop Michael Jackson also surfaces when he too donned the jacket:



Here at Oxford Blue we have our own tribute to this time honoured classic coupled in fine tweed and also wax:


This ladies tweed jacket is made to the same high quality as you expect from Oxford Blue. Elegant and fashionable the new look military jacket looks great when worn in and around town or in the country. Made from 100% Wool Tweed that is Teflon coated.



Our LTW07 Tweed Military Jacket in Sea Blue, Light Green and Biscuit


The Military jacket seen here with our Pilot Jacket


Sea blue

Our best selling and fine quality garment can be purchased on our site here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/137/ltw07-ladies-millitary-tweed


The jacket can be nicely coupled with our LTW08
Ladies Tweed Gilet (100% Wool, Teflon Coated) available for purchase here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/154/ltw08---ladies-tweed-gilet



Indeed, the military jacket is a timeless piece that will last through the ages as it has already proved to have done, spanning over three centuries, this garment will be a prized possession for anyone's wardrobe. 





































































Select history sourced from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar









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