Showing posts with label british style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label british style. Show all posts

Friday, 28 August 2015

The Baker Boy/News Boy Cap

The newsboy cap or newsy cap is a casual-wear cap similar in style to the flat cap. Sometimes also referred to as the:Baker Boy, Bandit Cap, Apple Cap, Eight Piece Cap, Eight Panel, Cabbie, Jay Gatsby (from The Great Gatsby), Fisherman's Cap, Pageboy, Applejack Hat, Lundberg Stetson and the Poor Boy Cap.
It has the same overall shape and stiff peak in front as a flat cap, but the body of the cap is rounder, fuller, and panelled with a button on top, and often with a button attaching the front to the brim (as the flat cap sometimes has).
The style was popular in Europe and North America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries among both boys and adult men. As the name suggests, it is now associated with newspaper boys, this may give rise to a misunderstanding - while it is true that many newspaper and other young working lads wore flat caps along with other styles, it was not however worn only by boys.



Flat caps were very common for North American and European men and boys of all classes during the early 20th century and were almost universal during the 1910s - 20s, particularly among the working 'lower' classes. A great many photographs of the period show these caps worn not only by newsboys, but by dockworkers, high steel workers, shipwrights, coster mongers, farmers, beggars, (such as Oliver Twist), bandits, artisans, and tradesmen of many types. This is also well attested in novels and films of this period and just after.


Oliver Twist era fashion in the 1910's

While they were worn by boys and men of all social classes, they were worn by the 'upper' classes primarily for leisure activities, and the style became associated with well-to-do country sportsmen, drivers and wealthy golfers
Oxford Blue carries within its belt a very high quality Baker's Boy Hat:http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/239/hw96-harris-tweed-8-pc-hat
Made From Harris Tweed, this is a must have for Autumn/Winter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newsboy_cap

Friday, 15 May 2015

A Small History of the Biker Jacket

The biker jacket owes its origins to its role as a functional work wear garment for world war 1 fighter pilots, the jackets were typically made from sheep, goat or cow hide from left over skin from the meat industries - owing to the work wear needing to be as cost efficient as possible. Padded at the shoulders and elbows, these jackets served as armour for the rider in case they were dismounted, to this day both functional and non-functional fashion orientated biker jackets retain the hallmark dynamic of the original work wear garment.
Some of the same fighter pilots once discharged from service undertaking lives as normal civilians, would once again don their government issued hides but not as servicemen – as bikers. Some being categorised as the 1 percenter outlaws and thus creating the iconic symbol of rebellion we are all so familiar with in this modern day and age.
Marlon Brando in the 1953 hit movie “The Wild One” reinforced the image and solidified the persona of the jacket as the rebel’s choice and the most iconic and distinct way to make such a bold statement – the jacket was now the heart of the symbol social freedom, and why wouldn’t it? A youth on a bike cruising along a long stretch of road with seemingly no troubles on their mind paints quite the picture of carpe diem, speed, adventure and liberty.


       Mildred “What are’ya rebelling against Johnny?
                                                         Marlon Brando “Whaddya got?”

The early leather motorcycle jackets, were a very popular brown goatskin style with short styling, fitted waist – to enable the rider to lean over his bike without the jacket crumpling at getting in the way. Many of these jackets imitated the style of the A-1 Bomber Jackets used by the Army Air Corp prior to WWII, these early jackets, were aviator or military style jackets with a short mandarin style collar and button front closure. 

                                                     http://eil.com/shop/moreinfo.asp?catalogid=527992

The jacket saw itself enter many avenues under the same banner of rebellion such as comic books, film and music, in the 50’s it fashioned itself into the world of rock, it was evident that the spirit of rebellion was to strike well within various subcultures in both the UK and USA alike:


1950’s era Rockers typically donned the biker jacket as part of the dress code of this sub culture

                                        http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/sid-vicious/images/31661749/title/sid-vicious-photo

Sid Vicious, a 1970’s era notorious and popular Punk Rocker, who’s life of sex, drugs and rock and roll helped carry the character profile of the jacket.

From the 50’s rock and roll era, the 70’s Punk Rock era emerged, a new generation of youths would now don the same robes of the spirit of rebellion that was ploughing through society. Freshly introduced to the biker jacket as its iconic symbol of freedom and not as the work wear jacket the previous generation would’ve initially known it as, this would now aid the jacket’s perception and role as the wings for those seeking and outward medium to showcase their attitude and disdain for laws and restrictions.
What is interesting to note is how a fashion got carried through from one generation to another and survived – many styles of fashion do not last that long at all, the biker jackets power had seen it through from 1920’s functional wear to 1970’s fashion and it was still going strong.
The jacket would see itself going from strength to strength and saw itself spilling from sub cultures existing on the fringes of mainstream society (owing to their disdain for the mainstream and taking a proud stand of independence clad in their black flag biker jacket) to the mainstream fashion folk and pop stars – one such instance being Michael Jackson:



In the 1980’s Michael Jackson would undertake the biker jacket in two of arguably his most free spirited songs, “Beat it” and “Bad” would display the king of pop in two distinct biker jackets – coincidence they picked such a jacket for a song to showcase youthful nonconformist spirit? Of course not, this jacket had thus proved itself once again being carried into the new generation of the original World War 1 free spirits taking to the air during wartime.
Other songs that would more directly involve the jacket and its past would be “Speed Demon” in which Michael plays a biker aiming to escape his troubles and those wishing to curb his privacy – namely the paparazzi.


And not to mention the hit “Thriller:”



         

Thus the jacket saw itself transform into a mainstream fashion item and slowly moved away from its perhaps intimidating past, the movements and cultures associated with it slowly fizzled its dominance out of society and those of all walks of life started to wear the jacket irrespective of its past role – albeit the jacket’s aura still maintaining it’s recognisable past but in a much more mild persuasion. 

Nowadays it is common to find them on the walkways rather than mischievous and perhaps criminalistics youths but not shed of it’s rebel symbology, in fact it is this very reason the jacket seems to be attractive to this very day – nearly a hundred years from its inception, the jacket has gone from strength to strength and finds itself in everyone’s wardrobe in one form or another, cladding it’s wearer as a free spirit with style:


                                                http://suichaboh.blogspot.co.uk/2009/11/studded-leather-biker-jacket_08.html


The Oxford Blue W113 and W111 Men's and Ladies Biker respectively are our homage to the legacy of such an influential item of apparel that the likes of which will probably never be rivalled, our jackets  is a high quality garment with contemporary design. Made from 100% cotton Japara outer and 100% cotton check lining, it looks both luxurious and modern. Features include: storm flap with stud fasteners, 100% cotton corduroy collar, multi-pocketed and adjustable throat tab. 

We also have in our range a W69 Men's Jecko Biker Jacket (shown last) 






                                                              W69 Jecko Biker

Thursday, 14 May 2015

An intro to our top selling men's W229 Pilot Jacket

As the name suggests the pilot jacket served initially as functional wear for those air borne adventurers and military personnel, during World War 1 the cockpits in the fighter jets were open and thus the pilots had to fight against the harsh colds of the altitudes they fiercely fought on as well as their enemies. Hence the jackets had to provide the pilot with enough warmth, insulation and protection as possible.
Over the years as with many items of clothing from the military the garment saw its transition into mainstream fashion worn by civilians. Changes to the function adjusted the form accordingly (as these were no longer required to stand high altitudes) such as the original fabric often being made from sheepskin exchanged for more fashionable material.
1.   Being a military item of clothing, the early pilot jackets had to be cost effective, long lasting, warm and able to be produced relatively quickly.

2.   The high collars served as shield against winter winds and flurries, the pilots would have caught illnesses if their body temperature went beyond normal – the neck being a major chink in the body’s natural armour.

The jacket owes its popularity to the image painted by the war pilots of WW1 and WW2, the lifestyle of freedom and rebel spirit emulated by a pilot taking to the air seemed to have appealed well to the youths of each generation thus carrying it into the 21st century and acting in a way as a small homage to the soldiers of the great war. 

This highly luxurious jacket 100% Waxed Cotton (Antique 8oz) and has a cosy wool collar to ensure maximum comfort when wearing this popular item of Oxford Blue. 
It features two button press breast pockets, two slide in pockets and adjusters on the hip and cuff to suit individual preferences. 

http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/176/w229-mens-pilot-jacket




Friday, 8 May 2015

Springwear? No problem.

Our W303 Men's Wax Tartan Harrington, available in honey or blackwatch tartan, this is a great looking jacket for the Spring or Summer and maintaining that classic British country look with a touch of mainstream fashion.

 http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/220/w303-mens-wax-tartan-harrington-