Friday, 28 August 2015

The Baker Boy/News Boy Cap

The newsboy cap or newsy cap is a casual-wear cap similar in style to the flat cap. Sometimes also referred to as the:Baker Boy, Bandit Cap, Apple Cap, Eight Piece Cap, Eight Panel, Cabbie, Jay Gatsby (from The Great Gatsby), Fisherman's Cap, Pageboy, Applejack Hat, Lundberg Stetson and the Poor Boy Cap.
It has the same overall shape and stiff peak in front as a flat cap, but the body of the cap is rounder, fuller, and panelled with a button on top, and often with a button attaching the front to the brim (as the flat cap sometimes has).
The style was popular in Europe and North America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries among both boys and adult men. As the name suggests, it is now associated with newspaper boys, this may give rise to a misunderstanding - while it is true that many newspaper and other young working lads wore flat caps along with other styles, it was not however worn only by boys.



Flat caps were very common for North American and European men and boys of all classes during the early 20th century and were almost universal during the 1910s - 20s, particularly among the working 'lower' classes. A great many photographs of the period show these caps worn not only by newsboys, but by dockworkers, high steel workers, shipwrights, coster mongers, farmers, beggars, (such as Oliver Twist), bandits, artisans, and tradesmen of many types. This is also well attested in novels and films of this period and just after.


Oliver Twist era fashion in the 1910's

While they were worn by boys and men of all social classes, they were worn by the 'upper' classes primarily for leisure activities, and the style became associated with well-to-do country sportsmen, drivers and wealthy golfers
Oxford Blue carries within its belt a very high quality Baker's Boy Hat:http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/239/hw96-harris-tweed-8-pc-hat
Made From Harris Tweed, this is a must have for Autumn/Winter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newsboy_cap

Friday, 21 August 2015

A brief history of clay pigeon shooting.

A traditionally aristocratic pastime, clay pigeon shooting has evolved to be a widespread pastime amongst all.



It was popular practise in the 1800's for hunting parties to don tweed garments and boots and hunt pheasants, pigeons and other game birds of all varieties in their country estates. It was in 1812 in a London suburb that the first live pigeon-shooting club was born. It was called the "Old Hats Tavern". The old hats were used nas boxes in order to launch the pigeons. This was when the expansion of this sport first started. 

However around the 1850's glass balls filled with feathers were used instead of live game, perhaps in an effort to make the sport less ghastly to the less bloodthirsty inclined sportsmen or even to cut down costs. Mechanisms were devised as a sort of animal trap to release the glass balls into the air, coining the phrase "ball trap."



By 1921 live pigeon shooting competitions were made illegal but by the end of the 19th century the clay target had emerged which Victorian era shooters used as practise before hunting for live game, thus the cklay pigeon had already reach mainstream circles paving its way to take over during competitions, by 1927 it has enough popularity for Britain to host it's first open championship.





Our large range of traditional and genuine shooting jackets can be viewed on our website www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk

1. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/150/w37---mens-tweed-jacket
2. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/10/mtw02-gents-tweed-gilet
3. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/9/ltw05-ladies-raglan-tweed-coat



Friday, 14 August 2015

The country tweed shooting jacket.



Among the British aristocracy was a popular pastime of hunting game and shooting, this was largely done in tweed garments to help shield the wearer from the typically cold and damp British weather. Shooting was largely a seasonal hobby depending on the quarry:

Gamebird and Waterfowl Open Seasons (dates inclusive)
Species
England and Wales
Scotland
Northern Ireland
Isle of Man
Pheasant
Oct 1 – Feb 1
Oct 1 – Feb 1
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Grey Partridge
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1- Jan 31
Protected
(ban in force)
Red-legged Partridge
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1 – Feb 1
Sep 1- Jan 31
Sep 13 – Jan 31
Red Grouse
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Aug 12 – Nov 30
Aug 25 – Oct 31 *
Black Grouse
Aug 20 – Dec 10 (Somerset, Devon and New Forest: Sep 1 – Dec 10)
Aug 20 – Dec 10
Ptarmigan
Aug 12 – Dec 10
Duck & Goose
inland
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31 – DucksJuly 1 – Mar 31 – Geese**
Duck & Goose
below HWM (see below)
Sep 1 – Feb 20
Sep 1 – Feb 20
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31- Ducks
Jul 1 – Mar 31 – Geese **
Common Snipe
Aug 12 – Jan 31
Aug 12 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Jack Snipe
Protected
Protected
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Woodcock
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Oct 1 – Jan 31
Golden Plover
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Coot/Moorhen
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Sep 1 – Jan 31
Protected
Protected

HWM – High water mark:
England and Wales: The area of sea shore which is more often than not covered by the flux and reflux of the four ordinary tides occurring midway between springs and neaps.

Scotland: Area between high and low water marks of ordinary spring tides

Northern Ireland: The limit of where the living seaweed is attached to the stones of the foreshore.

Isle of Man: * Currently a voluntary ban on shooting red grouse is in place. ** Geese can only be shot under general licence under the Wildlife Act 1990. See the Department of Agriculture Fisheries and Forestry (DAFF) website for terms and conditions of general licences http://www.gov.im/categories/the-environment-and-greener-living/wildlife/





The shooting jacket had to cater for it wearer in a different respect to a traditional jacket die to the nature of the sport, the 4 main ways are:

1.      Greater manoeuvrability

None shooting jackets do not allow much give when lifting the arms up, therefore should one go clay pigeon shooting where a high flying target moves fast, one would need the extra room and give in the shoulder region to allow such play.

2.       Deep and wide pockets

A defining characteristic, the pockets should be deep to ensure cartridges do not fall out and wide enough to allow quick and easy access to, shooters could also wear bandoliers as an alternative however the jacket also served as an accompanying store.

3.       Hidden zips

The zips would be hidden under flaps of tweed to protect the gun but from getting scratched and surely from making noise, on waistcoats the shoulder would have fabric over layer for the same reason.

4.       Warm and waterproof

Out in the estate all day, one would be up against fairly regularly un friendly British weather, hunting jackets in particular needed waterproof coating.






A theory of how the jacket came about which is not implausible is an evolution from the Norfolk jacket, popular as a sports jacket in the 1860’s but perhaps too restrictive, thus a more baggy coat came about to allow shooters greater play when hunting.



http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/


Our large range of traditional and genuine shooting jackets can be viewed on our website www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk

1. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/150/w37---mens-tweed-jacket

2. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/10/mtw02-gents-tweed-gilet

3. http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/9/ltw05-ladies-raglan-tweed-coat