Friday, 29 May 2015

A Snapshot History of the Military Jacket

The military jacket is considered widely as a staple garment to have in the wardrobe. It is quite interesting to note just how many items of fashion actually owe their roots to the military - a line of work which one would usually expect it to be all about function rather than form. 

However, this is where 17th - 18th century Napoleonic European military gifted the world of fashion with the iconic jacket that is so widespread today, more specifically the Hussar and Majorette jacket, the Hussar jacket would've most likely lead to the 19th century American civil war era style Majorette jacket, later in history the Navy would release it's "Pea Jacket" for its crew on board the war ships of Europe.



Left - a Hussar Jacket Centre - Navy Pea Jacket Right - Majorette Jacket

The Hussars, refers to a number of types of light cavalry. This type of cavalry first appeared in the Hungarian army of King Matthias Corvinus, the title and distinctive dress of these horsemen were subsequently widely adopted by light cavalry regiments in European and other armies. A number of armoured or ceremonial mounted units in modern armies retain the designation of hussars. 

During the 16th century onwards right until mid 19th century, the mode of warfare primarily used muskets, a type of rifle which once fired caused alot of smoke owing to the sulphur powder, the armies of old still meeting face to face in the field en masse would have a hard time distinguishing friend or foe had it not been for their brightly coloured and distinct garments, this function would then lead the jacket to form more of a statement of rank, pomp and gentry even amongst military.

The same strength of highly visible, distinct uniforms however would later prove detrimental to an armies war effort soon after the technology shift of rifles ensured minimal smoke and guerilla units would easily pick off the packed in mass of stark clad soldiers. Segments of the British army was the first  then to shift to camouflaged khaki uniforms in India shortly before the Sepoy rebellion of 1857.



The young 21 years old Cornet, (Second Lieutenant) Winston Churchill of the 4th Queen's Own Hussars, 1895


The first written mention of the word "Hussarones" (in Latin, plural; in Hungarian: Huszár) has been found in documents dating from 1432 in Southern Hungary (at the time the Ottoman military frontiers of the Hungarian Kingdom). A type of irregular light horsemen was already well-established by the 15th century in medieval Hungary.

Henceforth, the light cavalry is called huszár, a name derived from the word húsz ("twenty" in Hungarian), which refers to the drafting scheme where for every twenty serfs a noble owned, he had to equip a mounted soldier.

A premise over the etymology of the word Hussar is offered by Byzantinist scholars, who argue the term originated in Roman military practice, and the cursarii (singular cursarius). Through Byzantine Army operations in the Balkans in the 10th and 11th centuries when Chosarioi/Chonsarioi were recruited with especially Serbs, the word was subsequently reintroduced to Western European military practice after its original usage had been lost with the collapse of Rome in the west.


Hungarian king and founder of the Hussars Matthias Corvinus

The hussars reportedly originated in bands of mostly Serbian warriors, crossing into southern Hungary after the Turkish invasion of Serbia at the end of the 14th century. The Governor of Hungary, John Hunyadi, created mounted units inspired by his enemy, the Ottoman Turks. His son, Matthias Corvinus, later king of Hungary, is unanimously accepted as the creator of these troops. Initially, they fought in small bands, but were reorganised into larger, trained formations during the reign of King Matthias Corvinus. 

So the first hussar regiments were the light cavalry of the Black Army of Hungary. Under his command, the hussars took part in the war against the Ottoman Empire in 1485 and proved successful against the Turkish Spahis as well as against Bohemians and Poles. After the king's death, in 1490, hussars remained the preferred form of cavalry in Hungary. The Habsburg emperors hired Hungarian hussars as mercenaries to serve against the Ottoman Empire and on various battlefields throughout Western Europe.


Hussars were often portrait as dashing and un - matched in valour, it is no surprising then that the jacket should find itself within mainstream fashion, those wanting to associate themselves as dashing albeit with a touch of class would fit well wearing the three century old garment marvelling exactly that. 

The jacket would see itself form a variation amongst some military units into the majorette jacket, typically worn by cavalry officers during the American Civil War and various other European armies across the globe and it is this jacket that more commonly seen is the fashion realm.


The Majorette in it's modern day habitat
http://www.stylehive.com/bookmark/free-people-majorette-jacket-1164382

The jacket is designed to be flattering and at first amongst civilians saw itself more popular with women, perhaps to do with the women aiming to show off their husbands and thereby families link with the military and show her support to her husband's warrior - hood. To this day it remains a popular garment amongst those who prefer a fitted and gentry style garment and it does indeed still bare the connotations of the aristocratic and noble values of the social classes who first clad them.

Various pop stars wore the garment and thus expanded the garments use and place in mainstream society, such as guitar legend Jimi Hendrix who himself served in the US military:


httpwww.feelnumb.com20111117jimi-hendrix-royal-hussar-british-army-veterinary-corps-military-jackets
This specific jacket's origins date back to the 1700's when General Lasalle otherwise known as “The Hussar General” wore this type of tunic as depicted in the painting below. Inspired by the Hungarian fashion of the day, it is adorned with heavy horizontal tasseled gold rope (pelisse) across the chest and Austrian knots on the sleeves to show rank.

The King of Pop Michael Jackson also surfaces when he too donned the jacket:



Here at Oxford Blue we have our own tribute to this time honoured classic coupled in fine tweed and also wax:


This ladies tweed jacket is made to the same high quality as you expect from Oxford Blue. Elegant and fashionable the new look military jacket looks great when worn in and around town or in the country. Made from 100% Wool Tweed that is Teflon coated.



Our LTW07 Tweed Military Jacket in Sea Blue, Light Green and Biscuit


The Military jacket seen here with our Pilot Jacket


Sea blue

Our best selling and fine quality garment can be purchased on our site here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/137/ltw07-ladies-millitary-tweed


The jacket can be nicely coupled with our LTW08
Ladies Tweed Gilet (100% Wool, Teflon Coated) available for purchase here: http://www.oxfordblueonline.co.uk/products/154/ltw08---ladies-tweed-gilet



Indeed, the military jacket is a timeless piece that will last through the ages as it has already proved to have done, spanning over three centuries, this garment will be a prized possession for anyone's wardrobe. 





































































Select history sourced from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar









Friday, 22 May 2015

The prestigious visit of HRH Princess Anne to Oxford Blue




1996, the roads blocked off and HRH’s security arriving early to do a preliminary check around our premises, the scene was set for one of the honours a business could achieve.

The Princess Royal, the second child and only daughter of The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh, was born at Clarence House, London, on 15 August 1950, when her mother was Princess Elizabeth, heir presumptive to the throne. She was baptised Anne Elizabeth Alice Louise at Buckingham Palace on 21 October 1950. 


She received the title Princess Royal from The Queen in June 1987; she was previously known as Princess Anne. Her Royal Highness is the seventh holder of the title.

Princess Anne had come to know about our export success through the BKC, Oxford Blue is heavily involved in exporting goods and strengthening the British economy by doing so, indeed, the unique selling point of Oxford Blue is that our garments of made in Britain, each of our garments have been carefully handcrafted by skilled British workers as a classic British country clothing brand should be - something a lot of our competitors cannot offer.

By helping the economy in such a manner, HRH decided it apt to visit our premises just outside the Birmingham city centre on Constitution Hill to take a look at the production of the renowned garments of Oxford Blue.


 HRH’s visit made it to the Evening Mail

Princess Anne was shown around the building and was introduced to all the staff from all departments, from the manufacturers, sales, suppliers and distributors the entire process was shown step by step of how the company HRH came especially to visit achieved their feats.






Various snapshots of the day


Oxford Blue exports many of its clothes to international markets in Europe, Asia and even in the USA, the style of classic British country clothing strikes well with those not residing within the UK, many like the novelty of tweed and the look and feel of British made wax jacket, not to say of course that the products do not sell well at home here in the UK, but in terms of export - harkening back to the reason why HRH came to visit the factory.

Along with HRH, other special guests included rugby legend William "Bill" Blackledge Beaumont CBE (born 9 March 1952, Chorley, Lancashire, England) was captain of the England rugby union team as a lock, at a time when they struggled to win games, his greatest moment as captain was the unexpected 1980 Grand Slam. He is currently a member of the International Rugby Board and Chairman of the Rugby Football Union, Bill Beaumont Textiles specialises in traditional and contemporary fabrics for use in window coverings and upholstery.

When Beaumont played rugby in the 1970s and 80s, it was an amateur sport so unlike the stars of today, he had to have a normal job. When he left school he joined the family textile business, which he eventually bought from the family in 1998, and played rugby locally for Fylde Rugby Club where he progressed to play for Lancashire, the Barbarians, England and the Lions. He is still involved with rugby and is currently Chairman of the Rugby Football Union and was awarded an OBE in 1982 and a CBE in 2008 for services to Rugby.

Bill is the great-great-grandson of Joseph Hargreaves, the business’ founder who set up a weaving shed in Chorley, Lancashire in 1888. Bill works alongside his wife Hilary, the business’ Design Director. Bill and Hilary work with their eldest son Daniel who is the Managing Director. 





                                                     

At the end of her visit we gifted HRH with one of our HW44 Ladies Thelma Hats, a classic and charming piece of headwear featuring a brown 100% cotton checked lining, brim band around the centre and a bow at the back. This hat is also available in honey and blackwatch tartan – both going really well with their W47 & W49 Katrina jacket counterparts.                                        


 A close up of the newspaper article


HW44

HW38 Honey and Blackwatch edition

After which we received a letter from the crown stating how enjoyable the experience was for The Princess and how she will wear our hat with great pride:




Since then Oxford Blue has been going from strength to strength, the visit from her majesty was indeed a testament to the quality of our garments - fit for a Princess. 



Friday, 15 May 2015

A Small History of the Biker Jacket

The biker jacket owes its origins to its role as a functional work wear garment for world war 1 fighter pilots, the jackets were typically made from sheep, goat or cow hide from left over skin from the meat industries - owing to the work wear needing to be as cost efficient as possible. Padded at the shoulders and elbows, these jackets served as armour for the rider in case they were dismounted, to this day both functional and non-functional fashion orientated biker jackets retain the hallmark dynamic of the original work wear garment.
Some of the same fighter pilots once discharged from service undertaking lives as normal civilians, would once again don their government issued hides but not as servicemen – as bikers. Some being categorised as the 1 percenter outlaws and thus creating the iconic symbol of rebellion we are all so familiar with in this modern day and age.
Marlon Brando in the 1953 hit movie “The Wild One” reinforced the image and solidified the persona of the jacket as the rebel’s choice and the most iconic and distinct way to make such a bold statement – the jacket was now the heart of the symbol social freedom, and why wouldn’t it? A youth on a bike cruising along a long stretch of road with seemingly no troubles on their mind paints quite the picture of carpe diem, speed, adventure and liberty.


       Mildred “What are’ya rebelling against Johnny?
                                                         Marlon Brando “Whaddya got?”

The early leather motorcycle jackets, were a very popular brown goatskin style with short styling, fitted waist – to enable the rider to lean over his bike without the jacket crumpling at getting in the way. Many of these jackets imitated the style of the A-1 Bomber Jackets used by the Army Air Corp prior to WWII, these early jackets, were aviator or military style jackets with a short mandarin style collar and button front closure. 

                                                     http://eil.com/shop/moreinfo.asp?catalogid=527992

The jacket saw itself enter many avenues under the same banner of rebellion such as comic books, film and music, in the 50’s it fashioned itself into the world of rock, it was evident that the spirit of rebellion was to strike well within various subcultures in both the UK and USA alike:


1950’s era Rockers typically donned the biker jacket as part of the dress code of this sub culture

                                        http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/sid-vicious/images/31661749/title/sid-vicious-photo

Sid Vicious, a 1970’s era notorious and popular Punk Rocker, who’s life of sex, drugs and rock and roll helped carry the character profile of the jacket.

From the 50’s rock and roll era, the 70’s Punk Rock era emerged, a new generation of youths would now don the same robes of the spirit of rebellion that was ploughing through society. Freshly introduced to the biker jacket as its iconic symbol of freedom and not as the work wear jacket the previous generation would’ve initially known it as, this would now aid the jacket’s perception and role as the wings for those seeking and outward medium to showcase their attitude and disdain for laws and restrictions.
What is interesting to note is how a fashion got carried through from one generation to another and survived – many styles of fashion do not last that long at all, the biker jackets power had seen it through from 1920’s functional wear to 1970’s fashion and it was still going strong.
The jacket would see itself going from strength to strength and saw itself spilling from sub cultures existing on the fringes of mainstream society (owing to their disdain for the mainstream and taking a proud stand of independence clad in their black flag biker jacket) to the mainstream fashion folk and pop stars – one such instance being Michael Jackson:



In the 1980’s Michael Jackson would undertake the biker jacket in two of arguably his most free spirited songs, “Beat it” and “Bad” would display the king of pop in two distinct biker jackets – coincidence they picked such a jacket for a song to showcase youthful nonconformist spirit? Of course not, this jacket had thus proved itself once again being carried into the new generation of the original World War 1 free spirits taking to the air during wartime.
Other songs that would more directly involve the jacket and its past would be “Speed Demon” in which Michael plays a biker aiming to escape his troubles and those wishing to curb his privacy – namely the paparazzi.


And not to mention the hit “Thriller:”



         

Thus the jacket saw itself transform into a mainstream fashion item and slowly moved away from its perhaps intimidating past, the movements and cultures associated with it slowly fizzled its dominance out of society and those of all walks of life started to wear the jacket irrespective of its past role – albeit the jacket’s aura still maintaining it’s recognisable past but in a much more mild persuasion. 

Nowadays it is common to find them on the walkways rather than mischievous and perhaps criminalistics youths but not shed of it’s rebel symbology, in fact it is this very reason the jacket seems to be attractive to this very day – nearly a hundred years from its inception, the jacket has gone from strength to strength and finds itself in everyone’s wardrobe in one form or another, cladding it’s wearer as a free spirit with style:


                                                http://suichaboh.blogspot.co.uk/2009/11/studded-leather-biker-jacket_08.html


The Oxford Blue W113 and W111 Men's and Ladies Biker respectively are our homage to the legacy of such an influential item of apparel that the likes of which will probably never be rivalled, our jackets  is a high quality garment with contemporary design. Made from 100% cotton Japara outer and 100% cotton check lining, it looks both luxurious and modern. Features include: storm flap with stud fasteners, 100% cotton corduroy collar, multi-pocketed and adjustable throat tab. 

We also have in our range a W69 Men's Jecko Biker Jacket (shown last) 






                                                              W69 Jecko Biker

Thursday, 14 May 2015

Throwback Thursday

Throwback Thursday - the talented Galina Thomas and Josif Nolan modelling for us in 2014
Nolan can be seen here wearing:
Coat: W211 New Men's Tartan Burley (Blackwatch)http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/…/247/w211-new-mens-tartan-bu…
-


Thomas can be seen wearing:

Headwear: Hw38 Tartan Thelma (Blackwatch)
http://oxfordblueonline.co.uk/…/hw38---ladies-tartan-thelma…
Galina Thomas can be found here: http://galinathomas.blogspot.co.uk/
Josif Nolan can be found here: http://www.joymodels.com/model/7169/model